Ask Frank
Customers often ask questions about Quick Ship Metals products – about custom cuts, how to install kitchen backsplashes, trim, molding, whatnot. Blogger and man of all trades, Frank Ross knows how to dig for answers.
Frank has access to all of the people working at Quick Ship Metals’ fabrication, sales and customer service. So consider this page a forum for all kinds of ideas, questions and best of all – answers.
Enter questions in the “Your Comment” box.
Ask Frank your how-to or DIY questions.
Morning Adrienne, Sounds like you’ve got your plan together and are ready to roll. Stainless steel does not come with a hemmed edge, but it’s easy to add. This process creates a finished look that turns rough edges into a finished look. If you want to add a hem, it can be done easily to one side or two edges, such as top/bottom or left/right, but if you’re looking for a three or four-sided hem you’ll need to talk with our sales hotline at the number listed below. Here’s a link to the Hem order page which should make it easy to order directly from the links on the page.
Good luck with your project. If you’re still not sure about the hem, please give our customer service staff a call. They are very helpful and a comfort to people doing their first metal project. 1-888-334-2177.
Thanks for Asking Frank!
Hi Frank:
I am thinking of ordering the Satin Quilt stainless steel backs splash panel in 30″x30″. This is going to go behind my 30″ range and beneath the over the range microwave. While a 30″ length is longer than I will need….I felt it would be ok if it extended behind my range. My question is do these back splash panels come with hemmed edges or is that a special order? In my application the top edge will butt up to the microwave and then down the sides the panel will be in contact with the cabinets (just under the microwave) and then just painted wall and then the 5″ granite splash above the countertop on either side of the range. I thought the hemmed edge would be the best look for this application.
Hi Rodney,
Thanks for your interest in our copper circles. We do sell small quantities, and we have any gauge you would possibly need. Just give our customer service staff a call on our toll-free line and they’ll be happy to get your order out the same day, if you call before 2 p.m.
Have fun with your copper circles.
Frank
Hi, I saw your article on the circle shear. Do you do small quantities? I only need a couple copper circles, preferably out of 8 gauge and 23mm or 24mm in diameter.
Hi Frank!
A thought popped into my head last night. I have a cast iron claw foot tub that needs refinishing. I was considering lining it with copper. I have seen similar tubs for sale, but don’t know if it’s possible to just apply a lining. In my mind I was thinking a single sheet of copper “shaped” to the interior of the tub. The tub has a rolled edge so rolling the copper over the edge would be relatively easy. My questions are/is what gauge copper should I use? Is it possible to form using one whole sheet, or would a seam be necessary? I understand that untreated copper will gain a patina, but am also wondering if several coats of lacquer would stand up to the wear and tear of tub use and long hot soaks. (enabling the copper to stay bright) Since the exterior finish of the tub has been painted before and isn’t in great shape I was considering some type of coordinating Rustoleum paint finish which will cover the flaws. (Perhaps a hammered finish in a complimentary colour.) Tub hardware which will need to be replaced would be the faucet, drain and overflow. These would all need to be sealed watertight.
Any ideas, thoughts, or criticisms? Or am I just crazy?
Thanks!
Hi Mike, The heat required to bring a particular piece of copper to a specific color would depend on the thickness of the copper. Coloring copper with heat is a very experimental and unpredictable process. I am not aware of any chart that would coordinate a particular color. The heat should be applied slowly and evenly, and the process will progress through a series of colors that begins with gold and steps through orange, pink, purple, dark blue, and light blue, before turning black. Since it is difficult to heat a large area evenly, the colors will change unevenly if you’re not careful to spread the heat. If the color progresses past the one you’re trying to achieve, you can buff the copper with an emery cloth and start over.
Good luck with your project.
Hello,
I have copper bar that is heated and after that it has now different colors, but i wanted to know how hot it has been. Do you have any info about relation between different colors and temperature? Thank you
Afternoon Aruna, that article was posted some time ago and unfortunately Quick Ship Metals no longer carries those tiles. Thanks for bringing that to my attention. I’ve updated the image to one of the many patterns we do carry. You’ll find a number of decorative metal options in both stainless steel and copper that will add a great deal of interest to your kitchen’s backsplash.
If you have any other questions about your project, just ask away and I’ll do my best to help in anyway possible.
Hello Frank, I was looking at the backsplash used in the “Installing Backsplash a Breeze” article. Is that something Quick Ship Metals carries.. I am unable to find it for purchase. The article refers to it as random swirls stainless steel pattern. Thanks. Aruna
Hi David, you might have success calling local metal shops in your area and asking them if they can supply you with copper residue. Failing that, if you have an electric grinder you could just run a foot or two of copper tubing or flat stock into the wheel. Copper is soft enough it wouldn’t take much time to fill a small container with copper dust. I’m not aware of anyone that sells this as a product, so you may have to resort to your own handiwork.
Good luck, and thanks for asking Frank
Dear Frank,
I am looking for copper grindings, or copper dust to use as decoration in a concrete counter. Can you help me find such a thing?
Thanks,
David
Morning Lloyd, and thanks for asking this question about patinas – one of my favorite subjects. The article you are looking for is titled Simple, Safe Patinas From Your Kitchen Cabinet. You’ll find it at this link : http://quickshipmetals.com/blog/2010/12/29/simple-safe-patinas-from-your-kitchen-cabinet
One thing to keep in mind when it comes to creating patinas is experimentation is the fun part of this process. The chemicals that I mention are not the only options for opening up the rainbow of creative opportunities for this wonderfully adaptable metal copper! Most importantly, if you get a result you don’t like you can change it.
Have fun, and make something out of metal, preferably copper – life’s too short to do otherwise.
Frank
Just read your article on patination of copper with heat. You stated you would discuss patination with household chemicals. Where can I find that article?
Good morning Millie, From your description it is difficult to imagine an exact solution to this project. It is possible that the best solution would be to remove the handle and drill holes for it’s remounting over the stainless steel, but the manufacturer and model would be key pieces of information to this answer. Another critical issue to getting the precise cut and fit you are hoping for is a detailed drawing with exact measurements. If you would put these measurements on paper and then fax it to the customer service staff at QSM they will be able to provide you with a fast quote that is very competitive. Call the toll-free number and speak to them about faxing the drawing and you’re on your way to the carefree upgraded look of stainless steel! 1-888-334-2177
Hi Frank, I want to order two panels, of brushed stainless-steel 24 gauge, for the front of my two door refrigerator. The sizes are 14 3/4″ x 61 3/4″ & 21 1/2″ x 61 3/4″. Can I get a price on the two panels? The panels have long door handles on each door. So, each panel would have to be cut straight along the outside of the handle or go under the handle to the edge of the door, The shape is hard to describe since each panel would go straight above and below the handle until it goes under the handle. Can you give me any advice as well as a price?
Millie
Hi Lee, No problem on shipping that size stainless steel sheet. How you measure it will depend on the way the box is designed. The 24-gauge stainless should adhere to the curve without any problems. However, if you have a curve at the top edge as well that could be an issue, bit if the side is only curved on the vertical edge you’ll be in good shape to measure to the end of the curved edge.
Frank
Gary, You didn’t specify how you want to attach these two pieces of metal. If you’re going to attach the sheet to the end of the rod it will be a bit more difficult, but either option will be challenging because of the difference in thickness. I’d recommend soldering mainly because you won’t have to worry about burning through the copper sheeting. Also, I’d suggest that you heat the rod separately and then join it to the sheet. Naturally, both should be tinned first.
Good luck, and thanks for asking Frank
Hey Frank, I’m wanting to braze, weld, or solder .020 brass sheet to a .375 rod and don’t know which process would be best. What do you suggest?
Hello, Frank. We’re looking for stainless steel side panel for a refrigerator, approx 36″W X 71″H. Is this something you can ship? Should measurements be to the very edge, which is slightly curved … or “inside” that slight curve?
Thanks,
Lee
Hi Leslie, Mirror Finish Stainless Steel can be bent without any cracks or blemishes to the surface.
Thanks for asking Frank
Hi Frank,
My name is Leslie Nelwan from the Netherlands in Europe.
Already bought some items at Quickshipmetals. Have a question for you.
What happens if the #8 Mirror finished stainless steel wil be bend in a 35 or 90 degr. angle.
Do you think the surface on the bending area will change with e.g. cracks in worst case?
Kind Regards, Leslie
Hi Dori, you’ve asked a question for which there is no pat answer, simply because of the countless variables in human health and the potential for an allergic reaction.
Anytime you have a metal that is exposed to a person’s skin there is a possibility that an allergic reaction can occur. That potential, albeit a small one, is always a consideration in the most litigious society on earth. I am aware of several women that can only wear gold jewelery, and one that has an allergic reaction to any earring posts except the special hyper-allergenic metal.
It is possible to coat jewelry with a clear sealant but keep in mind that it will eventually wear off. In fact, if metal is rubbed enough it will wear off. Take for example the statue of St. Peter in Rome. So many millions of people have touched or knelt and kissed the big toe that is has been worn down severely. The protective coating can be reapplied when wear becomes obvious, and there should be no problem if you’re up front with people; preferably with a written explanation to avoid confusion.
Generally speaking, the reaction of such exposure would be limited to a rash but today one never knows because we have been exposed to so many chemicals, and the dosage is usually cumulative. Some really beautiful bracelets can be made from copper, and some people believe this metal has healing properties. Many people wear these uncoated copper bracelets for years with no adverse skin problems, so I wouldn’t stop making the jewelery. Just be up front about the potential for skin irritations.
Thanks for asking Frank
Hello Frank,
I am trying to find out whether a certain patina formula is safe to use on jewelry that is worn directly on skin, e.g. bracelets, rings and the like.
the formula consists of copper sulfate, vinegar and salt – with the copper sulfate being the one in question. after applying the patina the metal (copper in this case) quickly changes color to a shade of brown, after that it is being washed in water and left to air dry. I cannot find an answer whether wearing this piece of metal imposes any risks to the wearer…
many thanks in advance!
Dori
Hi Mary, Liquid nails is the easiest solution and it is also a good one in terms of adhesion.
The first task is to clean the wall’s surface to make sure no grease or dirt is present, giving particular attention to cracks or crevices. Depending on the surface, you may want to use a fine piece of sandpaper to rough up the surface for good adhesion. Measure and mark any holes that need to be cut for outlets or switches. Some good advice is to measure twice. Another good thing is to hold the metal up to the wall for a double check to make sure you’ve measured on the right side of the metal. It is a particularly disappointing experience to measure, cut and then realize that the holes were marked on the wrong side, after the cutting is done. Once marked, drill a hole into the interior of the portion to be removed that is large enough to insert the blade you’re using. Cuts can be made with a hand-held jig saw using a fine-toothed metal cutting blade. Work the blade slowly so you don’t over heat it or the metal you’re cutting. While the switch plate covers will conceal an irregular edge it is best to knock down the burrs with a small file or sandpaper to prevent sharp edges from ripping flesh or clothing during installation.
Apply random beads of the Liquid Nails and spread it thin using a trowel or rubber blade. Once you’ve got an even coat, mount the metal and hold it in place with either masking tape or clamps, depending on your particular situation. Allow the adhesive to dry for 24 hours and then bask in the beauty of your renovation.
Thanks for asking Frank
I have ordered a backsplash for my kitchen at home-24 g. Can i use adhesive and if so what kind for installation? Since this isn’t a code issue I am looking for best solution.
Morning Marylee, I’ve given your question a great deal of thought. After all, making an afterthought look like a forethought is a daunting assignment.
I have two suggestions. The first is the more simple of the two.
The easiest solution would be to make a uniquely shaped sheet of stainless steel or copper and glue it to the burned portion of the Formica, and make it look like a decorative forethought by adding it in several other places. What I’m talking about is cutting a shape like a kidney, a tulip, an octagon or some distinctive, decorative shape and placing it at various places so it doesn’t look like you had one place that needed to be concealed. If you decide to do this option, make sure you rough up Formica a bit with sandpaper so the glue will have a surface it can adhere to easily. QSM offers Rutland adhesive that is resistant to temperatures up to 450 degrees. Also, you’ll want to use heat resistant glue if you intend to set another hot skillet on it. Even with that precaution, I’d suggest that you use a hot pad since the heat will transfer quickly through the stainless, through the Formica and to the wood surface below. The first thing that will happen is the Formica will begin to bubble and separate, and if the skillet is hot enough it could cause the counter to smolder. As far as a drain board, that’s a bit more challenging, since to drain the surface would need to be higher on one side. That would require a special bend in the stainless and a beveled surface treatment. If you have some good carpentry skills you might consider that but the easiest solution would be a Rubbermaid drainboard placed over the new counter top.
The second option would be to cover the entire counter top with either stainless steel or copper sheeting, replacing the entire Formica counter top. That would certainly provide the best overall form and function.
If you need a piece custom cut, depending on the dimensions, QSM can handle almost anything. Give our customer service staff a call on the toll-free line at 1-888-334-2177, or log onto our Live Chat session from the right-hand-side of the website.
Thanks for asking Frank, and good luck with your burned spot.
I would like to make a hot plate type thing recessed if possible into formica countertop to hide the fact that I burned a hole in it. The stainless steel would abut the stainless steel sink so I think it would look ok, especially if I did it on both sides of the sink. It would be really cool if one side was like a drainboard. The only seam of the formica is 34″ from the sink. (Should have been in middle of sink). How can I make this look like a fore thought instead of an afterthought?
Morning David, Custom cuts are not a problem for any of the metals QSM sells. A photo is always helpful, but for a custom cut you’ll need to provide a drawing with exact dimensions, so there are no problems in getting it right. If you’ll contact our customer service department on our toll-free line, 1-888-334-2177, they’ll tell you how to send it. When this piece is added you should have an outstanding kitchen from top to bottom!
Thanks for asking Frank, and using our QSM website.
Frank,
Recently we remodeled our kitchen and bought a stainless steel backsplash for behind the range from Quick Ship Metals. Looks great! We bought a fairly expensive dishwasher in stainless steel and here lies the problem. The lower kickplate on the dishwasher is painted a grey rather than being stainless steel. Can you fabricate a kick panel in stainless for dishwashers? I can provide a picture and layout of the existing kick plate. I was thinking that I could possibly glue strip magnets to the back of the stainless panel to attach it to the existing panel.
Any suggestions?
Thank you.
David Maloney
Good morning Phyllis, You ask about “covering” a frig in stainless steel and don’t detail how far you want to go with that covering. Wrapping a refrigerator in stainless steel would be a challenging project without some metal working experience. I am reluctant to discourage anyone’s imagination but if you’re talking about a total wrap, this is one concept that I can’t offer any encouragement for. Updating a dishwasher with a stainless steel face is a simple job but that is only because the design is ideal for inserting a new sheet while concealing the edges with molding. If you’re talking about just installing a sheet of stainless steel on the face, that would be a much easier project if you’re ok with the limited possibilities for edge treatments. Wrapping a refrigerator you’d have to bend the stainless steel sheeting around the edges which wouldn’t be a big issue, but when you get to the corners you’d have sharp edges where the folds come together. Molding wouldn’t work so you’d have to weld the edges and that would cause discoloration from the heat. If you’re thinking about adding a single sheet on the front of your refrigerator’s door, log onto our website and click the LIVE CHAT icon and you can give the measurements to Audrea in our customer service department for a fast price quote.
Good luck, and thanks for asking Frank
dear frank, I don’t need a new frig but i would like to cover it in stainless steel, everyone i ask in this are doesn’t know anything about the stainless steel roll, can you help me
Hi Jason, Black Aluminum Diamond Plate would be a great look for a Camero. All you need to do is call with your exact measurements. Use our toll-free number 1-888-334-2177.
Hi Jan, you didn’t mention what gauge stainless steel you want to use, and that makes a big difference in what you can bend the metal with. Bending 24 gauge stainless steel sheeting can be done with a 2×4 that has a well-defined edge, but for 20 gauge and thicker sheets you’ll have to use a handbrake to be sure of getting a good looking edge. And again, you can order any custom bend, edge or hem and then all you’ll have to do is install the metal. You might also find a local source for renting a hand brake, or just paying someone at a metal shop to bend it for you. A simple bend shouldn’t cost much, or you could talk over the specifications for the bend with our customer service staff. Custom cuts are not a problem, and some simple bends might be as well. Give them a call at 888-334-2177. It’s a free call.
Thanks for asking Frank
Hello, is it possible to have a piece of Black Diamond plate cut to fit my rocker panels for a 2011 Chevy Camaro SS. Very interested in having this done – Thank you very much. Jason.
I want to make small brushed stainless boxes, approx 8 x 4 x 4; and I will need to cut a hole about 1/2″ x 2″ in the bottom. I plan on using a smaller “L” shaped piece to hide the corners and probably riveting them in place. My question is what can I use as a metal break to bend with out a huge expense?
Thanks,
Jan
Morning Cynthia, The choice of which gauge stainless steel to use is always relative to personal preferences. I’ll give you the pros and cons and you can evaluate their application to your personal needs. For most kitchen backsplashes 24 gauge stainless steel is adequate. Adequate is a term where the wiggle factor lies. If you want a more substantial installation based on use or abuse, go with the heavier 20 gauge but keep in mind that the heavier gauge of metal you choose, the more difficult it is to cut. You’ll find the thinner sheets of stainless steel fairly easy to cut and bend. A standard jigsaw or circular saw with a metal blade will cut 24 or 22 gauge stainless. More challenging cuts can be made using a Drimmel tool or RotoZip saw, but when you start getting into the thicker sheets the best option is to have it custom cut when you place your order. Seams can be handled with divide moldings. Here’s a link to our moldings and edge treatments. http://www.quickshipmetals.com/304-stainless-steel/stainless-steel-trim-molding.html . I didn’t answer Sean’s question about attaching stainless steel because he wanted information on a commercial application which can be different in various parts of the country because of local ordinances. For home applications, use Liquid Nails and you’ll be pleased.
Thanks for asking Frank
Morning Cynthia, The choice of which gauge stainless steel to use is always relative to personal preferences. I’ll give you the pros and cons and you can evaluate their application to your personal needs. For most kitchen backsplashes 24 gauge stainless steel is adequate. Adequate is a term where the wiggle factor lies. If you want a more substantial installation based on use or abuse, go with the heavier 20 gauge but keep in mind that the heavier gauge of metal you choose, the more difficult it is to cut. You’ll find the thinner sheets of stainless steel fairly easy to cut and bend. A standard jigsaw or circular saw with a metal blade will cut 24 or 22 gauge stainless. More challenging cuts can be made using a Drimmel tool or RotoZip saw, but when you start getting into the thicker sheets the best option is to have it custom cut when you place your order. Seams can be handled with divide moldings. Here’s a link to our moldings and edge treatments. http://www.quickshipmetals.com/304-stainless-steel/stainless-steel-trim-molding.html . I didn’t answer Sean’s question about attaching stainless steel because he wanted information on a commercial application which can be different in various parts of the country because of local ordinances. For home applications, use Liquid Nails and you’ll be pleased.
Thanks for asking Frank
hi Frank….hope i’m not repeating questions. First, what gauge works best for stainless back splash? Secondly, we have a window ledge that comes down into the stainless backsplash……is it difficult to cut to fit around the window sill? Do you think my very competent carpenter could do it? what sort of tool is best for cutting? third, we’ll need three sections…..any special treatment for the seams? Also, i noticed where Sean asked you about how to attach but didn’t see where you answered that part of his question ….so, how do you attach….glue, nails? thanks so much……Cynthia Gatien
Morning Clive, The appropriate thickness of copper sheeting for covering a counter or tabletop would be 24 gauge. It is thin enough to bend and form easily and since you are adhering it to a solid surface it is thick enough to handle surface stress. You didn’t mention the shape so I’m assuming that you’ve got a rectangular shape to cover. Round surfaces require a lot of pleating if you are wrapping the copper over the edges, so you might find the copper foil better suited for a round table. With either you will want to secure the metal to the surface with Liquid Nails, of course, after you have cleaned it properly. Foil is a bit more difficult to work with as far as wrinkles, but you can eliminate them by using a hand roller, smoothing them out toward the edges. It takes quite a bit of pressure. Just make sure you don’t push down too hard or you’ll tear the copper foil. Firm but gentle would be the watch word. The thicker 24 gauge is more durable, so those are the major considerations.
Good luck with your project.
Frank
Frank,
I am unsure what gauge of copper to purchase for a bar top and tables. I would like to cover a solid wood bar and wrap the copper around the edges. The tables have a laminate center which I would like to remove and replace with copper. I don’t seem to be able to fully understand the correct gauge to buy.
Thanks,
Clive
I have a ceiling recess that I would like to line with hammered copper. Need suggestions on: what weight copper to use, what type adhesive or should it be nailed/screwed up, can I get large sheet so there are no seams (aprox 48″ x 78″), what to use to cut hole for ceiling light box. OR would I be better off to use copper tile?????
Thanks for any help, suggestions.
Morning Dennis, Sorry for the delay in responding to you. I needed to get a photo for you to see what I was talking about. This is what we refer to as perforated copper and the same treatment can be applied to stainless steel sheeting. If this is what you have in mind, just give our customer service staff a call on our toll-free line and provide the dimensions you require and we’ll get it shipped right away. 1-888-334-2177
Frank
I want to make fireplace screens using stainless steel something for the screen. What would you recommend?
Keith, the .080 thickness of Aluminum Diamond Plate is very easy to bend and you shouldn’t have any problems doing that yourself, but one word of caution: this is winter. Metal is a lot like an old man’s knees; they bend better when they’re warmed up a bit.
Good luck, and thanks for asking Frank
Hi Dave, You’ve got a great project in that ’51. The aluminum diamond plate is so easy to bend you can probably go to a sheet metal shop in your area and have it bent. In custom, single project applications such as this, doing the fabricating on site would be your best option. I am not sure we could meet your needs on the roll or semicircle.
Frank
I was thinking about using your Aluminum Tread Brite, Diamond Plate .080″ Thick x 36″ Wide x 48″ Long – Alloy 3003 – S-AL-TREAD-080-36-48 bending it in the middle lengthwise to about 120 degrees forming a “V” type nose guard for my Kendon motorcycle trailer. I think 36″ high and going back 24″ on each side of the nose will provide me the level of protection from small rocks that might kick up from the truck tires but will the aluminum allow me to bend it that much without cracking or breaking?
I want to order a piece of diamond plate to put on the inside of the tailgate of my 1951 Ford F3 pickup but I also need to have a semicircle piece rolled of smooth aluminum to hook over the end edge of the tail gate and want to know if you know of anywhere I could get the metal shaped and welded?
Hi Sean, Compliance with commercial building codes is not my forte. I’d suggest that you contact your local city or county building inspection department, which will ultimately have authority over your installation. They are the defining authority and typically those situations have a way of becoming convoluted quickly. Since local municipalities have the ability to establish whatever they see fit, what I would recommend might not be satisfactory for those who hold the hoops you’re going to have to jump through. Good luck on your installation.
Frank
Hi Lori, I’ve been giving this question some thought because the stainless will not bend over the edges unless you have a metal break. As for the sharpness, the edges would be very sharp. An overlay on the top of the table is the best option for approaching this project. I’m not sure how you would want to tackle the design issue but you’re going to need something to define and protect the edges in a decorative fashion. Perhaps a wooden molding or you could use stainless trim. No doubt the stainless would create a striking and functional table. The biggest challenge you’ll have is what to do with the edges. A custom cut is no problem. We do that every day. When you’ve decided what to do, give our customer service staff a jingle on our toll-free line: 1-888-334-2177.
How are stainless sheets applied to a wall in a commercial kitchen behind the cooking appliances?
Can we use an adhesive? Are positive fasteners needed, like screws?
We are attempting to comply with the International Mechanical Code (IMC 507.9) and any guidance you can give us would be appreciated.