Ask Frank
Customers often ask questions about Quick Ship Metals products – about custom cuts, how to install kitchen backsplashes, trim, molding, whatnot. Blogger and man of all trades, Frank Ross knows how to dig for answers.
Frank has access to all of the people working at Quick Ship Metals’ fabrication, sales and customer service. So consider this page a forum for all kinds of ideas, questions and best of all – answers.
Enter questions in the “Your Comment” box.
Ask Frank your how-to or DIY questions.
John, I would suggest the 18 GA. This thickness of stainless steel is very durable. If you’re planning on a do-it-yourself project, you will need a hand break to make the bends.
FR
I want to make a workbench with a ss top. The ss top should have a small back splash, maybe 3″, and a front dropped edge, maybe 31/2″. The top should be about 20″ deep and 5′ long. What gauge should I get? I will not be pounding on the bench top.
What is the availability of 304SS sheet metal in 28 gage thickness?
Thank you!
Morning Sherri, To work the creases or small indentations our of copper, take a roller and work back and forth over the unwanted blemishes. Deeper creases will require more pressure, and you will have to work the crease in both directions.
FR
Frank, I purchased the cooper sheeting like you suggested, cut out my holes for the sink and have laid it down on the existing countertop. My problem is I am concerned about applying the liquid nails, because I am not sure how to get the creases out of the cooper. Do you have any suggestions? I know and don’t want a perfect countertop, but do need to make it at least flat. Any suggestions? Also, how should I handle the one corner that I have to cover?
Thank you
Hi Sherryi,
Copper foil would be a great way to go with your bathroom countertop. You can easily install the copper foil as a veneer over your existing countertop. Depending on the size that you need. I would recommend the .010 thickness . Here is a link to the web site that gives you the sizes along with the prices. http://www.quickshipmetals.com/copper/copper-foil-010.html
As for installation you can use contact cement.
Frank
I am considering putting a hammered cooper sheeting on my guest bathroom countertop. The bathroom is rustic with river stone flooring and I think the cooper would be a good touch to the bathroom. Is this a good idea? The bathroom isn’t used very much. I would like to install it over the existing Formica countertop. Is this something that would be easy to cut out and install? What would you suggest?
Steve, you are correct. It would be the .010 foil, not the flashing. Must have been off in the ozone for a bit on that response. The Pittsburgh fold is the type used on rain gutters, but a more familiar use would be related to sandwiches. When you are wrapping a sandwich in aluminum foil, you bring the two ends together, fold them over once, and then fold them again. That’s the Pittsburgh fold. The smaller the fold, the less movement you’ll have.
Good luck, and sorry for the confusion.
Frank
Frank, thanks for the comments regarding the lamps I am making with my cub scouts. You mentioned .010 flashing, but the flashing I see on your WWW page comes in .0216 minimum. I assume you mean .010 foil. Also, I did a google search but didn’t find anything about the pittsburg fold. Can you give me some details, or point me to the directions? That sounds like a better choice than soldering. thanks,
–steve
Dale, I’m happy to learn of your success, and thank you for your kind words about our customer service team. We think they’re tops also. I’ll send you an email address. I look forward to seeing them, and posting them on this blog.
Thanks, Frank
Dale, I’m happy to learn of your success, and thank you for your kind words about our customer service team. We think they’re tops also. You can email your photos to copper_connection348@yahoo.com. I look forward to seeing them, and posting them on this blog.
Thanks, Frank
Frank, I would like to email photos of finished oven hearth and a note of thanks to John in Sales Dept. The quality of the Storm Mfg Stainless Steel product is exceeded only by the excellence of the Customer Service. What is email address I can use (this blog site does not enable attaching photos). Regards, DHKillen
It depends on the quantity you have. If you only have a few, sell them on eBay. If you have a lot, take them to a local recycler. Storm buys finished copper sheeting and bar stock from mills and would have no interest in buying copper ingots. Thanks for asking.
TW, it would depend on what quantity you’re talking about. If you only have a few, eBay would be your best bet. If you have a lot, take them to a local recycler. Storm buys from mills that produce sheet and bar stock, so we have not interest in copper ingots. Thanks for asking. Frank
do you know who buys copper one pound bars.
Brass? Go with copper. It will look better. The best thickness to work with for your cub scouts would be .010 Copper Flashing. The same for Brass if you have your heart set on that. They can cut the shape with Tin Snips. Also it will be thin enough they can punch some designs in it using a hammer and punch or awl. You can either solder the connections or use a fold (Pittsburg fold) to complete the shade. Keep in mind to order a larger size because you need to make the cone effect.
Hi Frank. I am making cedar log lamps with a group of cub scouts. The lamps are done and now we want copper or brass shades for them, if they aren’t too expensive. I am wondering what gauge would work for them. I would like the kids to be able to cut them out and bend them to shape, and I will solder the pieces together with a torch. So it needs to be fairly easy to work, but strong enough to keep its shape without a frame. What copper gauge would you recommend, and what brass gauge?
thanks,
–steve
Hi Linda, Use the .020 Decorative Copper Va Pattern. It will look fabulous with water running down. The .020 or 24 ga can be a little hard to work with but it will bend around your cement board. To close the gaps you can always braze the corner to have a completed look.
The material is sturdy enough to handle your need. You could compare it to the thickness of a credit card.
Frank
Hello Frank,
I am making an exterior copper waterfall. The single sheet of copper will be glued to cement backer board. I want to wrap the sides around the back of the backer board to hine thew cement board. What thickness should the copper sheet be so that I can bend the copper by hand? I want a sturdy sheet but plyable at the ends.
Sam, We do have mirror finish stainless steel in that size, and custom cuts are never a problem. The cost of the mirror finish stainless custom cut to 36” x 75” would be $409.28. Shipping would be additional due to the length requested.
The piece weighs approximately 30 lbs, to properly quote freight you will need to provide the zip code it would be shipping to. I’d recommend you call the customer service staff at Quick Ship Metals and they’ll take your order and give you an accurate shipping cost. The numvber is 1-888-334-2177.
Frank,
I am looking for a mirror finished stainless steel about the size of 36 inches by 72 inches (ideally, 75 inches). I would like to know if something like this is available and, if so, how can I order this. I also would like to know approximate cost, including shipping, and weight for this mirror. Thank you.
Sam
Cary, I’m not sure I understand what you need or if there is some uncertainly on your part. Are you looking for a ¼” bend around the entire sheet? That is what I understand from your comments. If that is indeed what you are thinking about for a solution, that will be very hard to achieve due to the limitations of the bending process. I would suggest that you call our experts so they can make sure your project meets your personal expectations. Give us a call at 888-334-2177 or go online for live chat and we be happy to assist you.
Diane –
Inexpensive! Plain Stainless Steel backsplash should work great for you. http://www.quickshipmetals.com/304-stainless-steel/kitchen-backsplash-stainless-steel-24.html go ahead and add the liquid nail (adhesive) to your order so you will be ready to install it when your shippment arrives. http://www.quickshipmetals.com/protectants/liquid-nail.html You should be able to get your backsplash and adhesive for around $ 100.00. You will be please with the results.
Betsy, as you may know, copper will patina naturally over time. Installing it inside your home around a fireplace setting will really be a fantastic look. There are all kinds of chemicals on the market to enhance that look. Also some simple homemade remedies as well. If you have the patience, time is on your side. The tiles do not have any protective coating over them and they will age naturally. I love the look. The copper will darken over time and when it is installed around a heat source you should get a rainbow of blues and greens and maybe some orange to red colors. You will enjoy the look. Be very careful in purchasing pre-patina chemicals, most of them are paint based.
We offer custom cuts to our customers. Can you provide me with the material that you need along with the thickness and we will be happy to provide you the material. Give us a call 888-334-2177 or go online chat and we be happy to assist you. Thanks for the opportunity.
I’m building small stereo components from various woods, need face plate and back plate. These would be 4″ x 2″ any reasonable gauge up to 1/8″ thick. Can you sell me a small quantity like a half-dozen pieces? I thought about ordering the stainless sample pack, but I no longer know anybody with a brake to cut them. Bright ideas?
I’ve received one of your hammered copper tiles as a sample and want to use them on my fireplace surround. (very excited!) However, I like the look of antique copper…some dark areas with bright hightlights (like an old hammered pot). How can I achieve this affect with your tiles?
Thanks,
Betsy Horn
Hi Frank,
Thanks for the comments! I should have mentioned that the tile only goes up a few inches on the bottom of the backsplash. After that, it’s just stainless over painted drywall. So option 1 wouldn’t work since the edge would be seen all the way up. Option 2 will leave a thin gap between the upper part of the backsplash and the wall (assuming I use a piece of 1/4″ luan behind the stainless. I suppose I can fill the gap with caulk, but I’d prefer metal, of course.
Is there a way to do a single straight 1/4″ 90 degree bend along the edge to give the appearance that the stainless is wrapped around a backing?
Thanks,
–Carey
Cary,
Wow! You have some option to go with, hopefully I can help you out.
Option #1 http://www.quickshipmetals.com/decorative-hems.html (Once you’ve looked at the link you will understand more..)
Think of using the tile hem in the reverse by simply turning it over. Lay the lip that you see that is covering up the tile underneath your existing tile and then butt your tile up to the bend, this will allow the backsplash to be the same level as the tile. I would go the extra effort to add a simple piece of luan plywood as a reinforcement to the back of the stainless steel metal. (my choice)
Option #2 http://www.quickshipmetals.com/decorative-hems.html
Hem all 4 sides and again add the ¼” thick luan plywood to the back of the stainless steel trim to give it the same depth as your tile.
We can offer you a sample of either options.
It would be nice to have a piece of .25 thick stainless steel to make this process seamless, but unfortunately we do not carry the thickness. Also the weight of the piece would never hold with just adhesive.
As for the adhesive you can use our Liquid Nail adhesive , the high temp is for dishwasher panel and fireplace surrounds.
Hi! I am looking for an INEXPENSIVE, sheet stainless for my new kitchen backslash…something easy to attach to unfinished drywall..that will not show indentations or seams from the drywall…???any solutions??? I like the no pattern stainless look…THANKS!!
Hi Frank,
I’d like to install a stainless backsplash that sticks 1/4″ (or maybe 3/8″) out from the wall, so that it doesn’t appear to be too “flat” where it connects to a tile backspash, and so that it completely covers the small gap between the back edge of the countertop and the wall.
Will hemming have this effect (i.e. making the stainless backspash seem to be 1/4″ thick), or is a hemmed panel still very thin? Would it be possible to get a “hem” that makes the stainless panel appear to be 1/4″ or 3/8″ thick? Or would I need to use some sort of trim piece?
Also, should I use a high temp clear caulk to seal the bottom of the backsplash to the countertop?
Lastly, regardless of my other questions, can I get a piece of stainless that has been hemmed on all 4 sides, or is 2 the max?
Thanks,
–Carey
Let’s go with the Stainless Steel Mirror finish. It has the “chrome” look that you will love.
20 GA Stainless Steel Mirror Finish 3” x 12” $ 10.50 ea Free Shipping
This should get you and your buddy started and looking for more projects.
Frank,
I am looking to replace a few pieces of the stainless grill on the front of an old IH truck. I am doing this for a buddy of mine. The existing peices have a pretty shiny finish (close to a chrome look). I am wondering which type of stainless i should get. THese are about 24 ga 12″ long and 3″ wide. Trying to keep the cost down of course. I wasn’t sure if i will need to polish a peice of 304 or 316 or is i can just order a few pieces that are already really shiny.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks
Jake
Good Afternoon Ed,
The decorative copper is the only way to go to get a “wow” look. It comes in 24-Ga. Sorry that is the only thickness that we carry. Keep in mind this is a very good thickness to work with. You can get this in 96” lengths. We just don’t offer free shipping for this item. It will need to be shipped by an LTL carrier. Don’t fret we ship this all the time.
A simple hand break will make your bend on each side of your bar. You may have a buddy that you can borrow one from or rent one from a local tool rental company. Always make a dry run to make sure it fits. As for your connections, you can butt the material end to end. I have installed this before and what I find works best is to place a line of silicone caulk underneath the first piece, and then lay the adjoined piece to it making it and the butt-end. Then, run a line of silicone caulk and let it stand for 24 hours. Once it is dry, take a utility knife and cut off the excess. You will have a secure watertight bond.
Now, for the 45 degree angle, cut it on site. We will be glad to cut it for you, but again, if your lines are not perfect it will not match up properly. Trust me, you think it is perfect dealing with wood, but you can be 1/16″ off and it will throw off the entire project.
If you decide to overlap the material you should have no problem. You will not see the difference.
Please let me know if you need additional information.
And, good luck with your project. Send photos when you’re done. We’ll celebrate your success from a distance!
Frank
Frank,
Looking to install a copper bar top. It will be 10 feet long and will have one 90 degree bend at one side. I notice that the hammered tops max out at 4 foot lengths. First, what gauge is best used for a bar top and can the lengths be but jointed together to look professional? Or is it better just to get a flat roll? Last, to make the 90 degree turn, I am thinking I should cut the joint at a 45. Is it possible to do this by hand and make it look good or does Quick Metals offer a custom cut service?
Looking forward to learning from you!
Ed
Diamond Plate would be a great material to use on your truck bed. Our experts suggest the .080 or the .125. Keep in mind that this material is only for deco and you will need to use a support underneath it. You will need to add the plywood first and then apply the decorative Diamond Tread Plate. We just received a new item: Black Diamond Tread Plate, we carry it in .063. This is still thick enough to use, if you do not plan on hauling a heavy load. Since it is a vintage truck, I do not see you using it much to go to the local hardware store.
For a quick price quote call the customer service staff with your measurements and they will be happy to give you a quote.
Thanks for asking!
Frank
I have a 1969 longhorn Chevy pickup and would like to put diamond plate on the bed of the truck instead of wood. Do you have what I need? If so, how should the diamond plate be installed. Some say I should put down plywood first.
Hi Mary Kay,
Based on the information you’ve provided, 24-gauge stainless will meet your needs.
Generally Stainless steel will match. QSM’s experts always tell customers if you are really concerned with the match, go ahead and order the sample to see if you like the look. Keep in mind most stainless steel products will complement each other. For example if you have a Sub Zero Fridge and a Thermador range even though they are two different brands and two different styles they still complement each other because they are of the same material.
You have two options for edge treatment. Hemmed, which is a great look, or Decorative Trim Molding this gives you a great picture frame look. Again, that is a personal option. I would recommend the hemmed, it’s my preference. Having a finished edge with the trim pc or the hemmed backsplash will give you a finished look. That is what you need when you are adhering this to a drywall. It completes the look!
To capture the look of an embossed horse you would need to make a mold. From there you would hand form the copper into the mold to accomplish the final look. Time and patience would be your best friend at this point because it can be completed by pounding the copper into the mold. I would recommend the .0216 copper flashing. It would be soft enough to form without heat and hold its shape.
Let us know how your project turns out, and don’t hesitate to contact me again if you have further questions.
John, the solution to your problem is very simple. First tape off the area that you are wanting to drill. Use masking tape (sometimes called painter’s tape) and mark the spot where you want to drill. Use a stainless steel drill bit (sometimes the drill bits are marked with “heavy metal”) and you can drill into the stainless steel.
Tip: Getting the hole started is the tough part. If you tap the mark where you want to drill with a large nail this will give you an indentation to keep the drill bit in position, preventing it from traveling while you get the hole started.
Custom cuts are not a problem. Just make sure you measure exactly and it does help to do a simple sketch of the area you want to cover, just to make sure there are no misunderstandings.
Frank, How difficult is it to drill say a 3/16 holes in the stainless backsplash? I don’t want to use silicone or liquid nails to mount it. Another ques. If I order say the 24 X 48 inch stainless can it be cut to the size i need?
Hi Frank: I have been looking at the Quick Ship Metals web site. We just installed a new commercial grade stainless Kitchen Aid range and a stainless Arietta range hood. Now I want a sheet of stainless as a backsplash to tie the whole thing together.
What would be the best gauge to use?
Without ordering the samples, how do I know that what I order will match the stainless I already have?
We will be putting the stainless on drywall, no tile abutting it on the sides. Do I hem or not?
Looking through their site, I saw a really nice backsplash, which I haven’t been able to find again. It was stainless with a superimposed copper horse. My husband was in contact with one of the sales people and they don’t do that at the company. How hard would it be for me to do that and is there a web site that would give me directions. Would I buy the copper foil to get that look? Thanks for your help. MK
Debbie,
This is a very good idea. We have many customers that have had this same problem and the .020” thick copper strip eliminated all moss growth. We carry this C110 copper strip .020” in many widths ½” ; ¾” ; 1” ; 2” ; 4” . Also, we can cut whatever length you need.
You can either use copper nails or polyurethane liquid nails and just glue it down. If you use the copper nails I suggest you caulk the nail hole to prevent water damage. If you have any questions please feel free to either call or email me or Jon Varosian who provided this information.
Hi,
I am striking out on my own here. I am looking for copper strips to put on the top of my roof to inhibit moss growth.
We live in the Pacific NW and our roof is beginning to show moss taking over the south side of our roof.
I was thinking of using your .010 or .0216 copper foil and cutting it into strips.
I am a 56 year old disabled female, but I can cut the strips and have my husband put them up on the roof line.
What do you think? Is this a reasonable idea or a dumb idea. . . .and how do we attach it to the roof-line? Copper nails?
Do you have any other suggestions for this type of problem?
I also thought of getting recycled copper pipes and putting them up on the roof line.
ANY assistance would be helpful. I am just starting my research on this project so any direction you can point me in would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks much,
Debbie P
Mary Beth, You’re one step closer to a beautiful backsplash. Your knowledge of laying ceramic tiles with flow right into copper. Our copper tiles are the same thickness as ceramic tiles. They can be set on a backer board, sometimes called wonder board.
The edges are beveled so you get a great look with your grout. The tiles come with a PVC Coating that can be removed after installation. They look great! Now, all you have to do is measure and calculate the number of tile you’ll need, then prep the area where you want to install them. If you need help, send a simple diagram with measurements and we’ll be happy to assist you.
Good luck with your project, and send us a photograph when you’re done!
Hi,
I love the hammered copper tiles and would love to make a back splash with them. I know how to lay ceramic tile, but not sure how to lay the copper tiles. What are they mounted with, how do you cut them, and what if any material do you use for grouting. I would appreciate any information you could give me.
Mary Beth
Sam, there’s an easy solution that only requires a few steps.
Never use contact cement on copper. It will not dry on this metal and makes a real mess.
Liquid Nails® Polyurethane adhesive creates a strong bond indoors or outdoors. And it adheres well on a wide range of materials and surfaces.
QuickshipMetals.com offers this adhesive in a kit that includes 1 tube of Liquid Nails Polyurethane, 1 caulk gun and a 4″ x 4″ scraping trowel for spreading the bead after application. http://www.quickshipmetals.com/protectants/liquid-nail.html
First, you want to make sure the wall is structurally sound, with no loose tiles or any that might become loose.
Next, clean the surface of any dirt or grease and remove any particles that might damage the metal.
On smooth wall surfaces you can improve the adhesion by lightly sanding the area prior to applying the adhesive.
Lay out the NEW backsplash face side down, making sure the grain pattern is in correct position.
Wear gloves when using this product. Insert the cartridge of Liquid Nails into a standard caulk gun and puncture inner seal with a nail or wire to get it started. Apply a 1/4″ wide bead of adhesive to one of the surfaces to be bonded. It is not necessary to coat both the copper and the wall. Join the surfaces together within 30 minutes of application. Use the scraping trowel and press firmly so that the adhesive is 1/16″ to 1/8″ in thickness. Keep the adhesive an inch from the metal’s edge.
Use mechanical fasteners, masking tape or bracing to hold surfaces together until the adhesive has set. Drying time varies from 8 to 12 hours, depending on temperature, humidity and porosity of the surfaces) but it is best to let it dry for 24 hours. Do not use this product at temperatures below 40° F.
Peel the protective PVC film off and clean up your new installation.
Cleanup wet adhesive with mineral spirits or toluene. Remove dry adhesive by scraping.
Oh, and send us a photo when you’re done.
How can I attach my wife’s new copper sheet backsplash to old terracotta wall tiles?
Storm Copper Coat and Copper Shield work by not allowing any moisture or oxygen to touch the copper’s surface.
Both of these coatings stays clear in color, unlike Polyurethane that turns a yellowish color over time. Our experts recommend two coats for maximum protection. Wait until the first coat is completely dry before applying the second coat.
In the Kitchen & Bathroom limit their use to backsplashes. Due to the chemicals in this product it is not recommend for use on sinks or faucets. In the kitchen, use them only in areas that are not in direct contact with food preparation surfaces.
There is no warranty.
You did hear correctly as far as these products longevity. When Copper Coat or Copper Shield are applied properly, you can expect 10-12 years of protection for your copper.
Oh, and Viki, thanks for asking!
I read about the benefit of clear coating copper, no tarnish for ten years, yada-yada. And since your site sells copper sealants, can you tell me why they are any better than plain old lacquer?